The Ultimate Guide to PhiBrows SUPER Pigments: Mastery and Application
Master the PhiBrows SUPER pigment formula for flawless microblading. Learn how to navigate the shade system, match Fitzpatrick types, and ensure EU REACH compliance for long-lasting, crisp results in your professional studio.
In the world of professional microblading, the quality of the pigment is just as critical as the artist's technique. PhiBrows, the flagship brand of PhiAcademy, has consistently set the industry standard with their innovative formulations. Their latest advancement, the PhiBrows SUPER formula, represents a pinnacle in pigment technology, specifically designed to offer stability, safety, and exceptionally crisp healed results.
For artists operating within the European Union, understanding these pigments is essential not only for aesthetic success but also for regulatory compliance. This guide explores the science behind the SUPER formula, how to select the perfect shade based on the Fitzpatrick scale, and best practices for storage and application.
The Innovation of the SUPER Formula
The PhiBrows SUPER pigment formula was developed to address common challenges in the permanent makeup industry: pigment migration, unwanted color shifts, and compliance with the strict European REACH regulations. Unlike older generations of pigments, the SUPER formula is bio-inert, meaning it does not react with the body's tissue in a way that causes irritation or excessive fading.
One of the standout features of this formula is its stability. The pigments are designed to stay exactly where they are placed, ensuring that fine hair strokes remain crisp and do not blur into a solid mass over time. Furthermore, the colors are formulated to fade true to tone, avoiding the dreaded transition into red, blue, or purple hues that plagued early PMU products.
Navigating the PhiBrows Shade System
PhiBrows simplifies the color selection process by offering a streamlined range of shades that can be used alone or mixed to create custom colors. Understanding the underlying base of each pigment is the key to predicting healed results.
- Brown 1: The lightest shade, ideal for clients with natural blonde or light brown hair.
- Brown 2: A versatile medium brown, often considered the most popular shade for a wide range of clients.
- Brown 3: A deep, dark brown for clients with naturally dark hair and higher Fitzpatrick types.
- Golden Brown: A warm, light shade used primarily for very fair clients or to add warmth to cooler mixtures.
- Fox: A specific pigment designed for redheads or clients with warm, auburn undertones.
Matching Fitzpatrick Types and Undertones
To achieve the best results, an artist must evaluate both the client's skin undertone (cool, warm, or neutral) and their Fitzpatrick scale ranking. A common rule of thumb is to use a warmer pigment on a client with a cool undertone to prevent the brows from healing grey or ashy.
| Fitzpatrick Type | Typical Skin Description | Recommended PhiBrows Shade |
|---|---|---|
| Type I - II | Fair skin, light eyes, blonde/red hair | Brown 1 or Golden Brown |
| Type III | Medium skin, tans gradually | Brown 2 |
| Type IV - V | Olive to dark brown skin | Brown 3 |
| Type VI | Deeply pigmented skin | Brown 3 (with caution) |
Mixing with Correctors and Adjusters
While the standard shades are excellent, sometimes a client's skin chemistry requires an adjustment. PhiBrows provides specific correctors to neutralize unwanted tones during the initial procedure or at the touch-up. For example, adding a small amount of Yellow or Orange can warm up a dark pigment for a client with very cool, thin skin.
When working with PMU pigments, it is vital to remember that the healed color is a combination of the pigment and the client’s own skin melanin. Using a 1:1 ratio for mixing is often the standard, but experience will dictate when a more nuanced approach is necessary.
EU REACH Compliance and Safety
Since early 2022, the European Union has enforced the REACH regulation, which limits certain chemicals in tattoo and PMU inks. PhiBrows SUPER pigments are fully REACH compliant. This means they are free from prohibited heavy metals and preservatives that were once common in the industry. For professionals, using REACH-compliant products is not just about safety; it is a legal requirement for operating a studio in the EU. At PMUpro, we ensure that all our microblading supplies meet these rigorous standards, providing peace of mind for both the artist and the client.
Application and Aftercare Expectations
The SUPER formula has a thicker consistency compared to many liquid pigments, making it ideal for the manual microblading technique. It clings well to the microblade and enters the skin efficiently. Artists should notice that less "work" is required to achieve saturation.
Post-procedure, clients can expect the color to appear 20-40% darker during the first few days. As the skin heals and the epidermis exfoliates, the true color of the SUPER pigment emerges. Because of the formula's stability, the retention rate is typically higher than with previous versions, often requiring fewer passes during the perfection session.
Storage and Longevity
To maintain the integrity of your PhiBrows pigments, they should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. High temperatures can alter the chemical balance of the pigment, while UV light can degrade the colorants. Always ensure the cap is tightly sealed after each use to prevent the pigment from drying out or becoming contaminated.
Each bottle of PhiBrows SUPER pigment comes with an expiration date and a batch number. It is professional practice to record these details for every client procedure as part of your safety protocol. You can find more information on best practices in our frequently asked questions section.
Where to Buy PhiBrows Pigments in the EU
Sourcing authentic PhiBrows products is crucial to avoid counterfeit pigments that can be dangerous and produce poor results. PMUpro is a specialized B2B supplier based in Slovenia, offering the full range of PhiAcademy products. We provide tracked delivery across the EU, with most orders arriving within 24 to 48 hours. Orders over 199 EUR qualify for free shipping, making it easy for professional studios to restock their essential supplies.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are PhiBrows SUPER pigments suitable for machine work?
While specifically optimized for manual microblading due to their creamy consistency, many artists successfully use SUPER pigments for machine shading by adding a diluent to achieve the desired fluidity. However, for dedicated machine work, PhiAcademy also offers formulas designed specifically for that purpose.
How do I prevent the pigment from turning grey?
Grey results are often caused by placing the pigment too deep in the dermis or using a cool-toned pigment on a client with cool skin. To prevent this, ensure your depth is correct and add a warm corrector (like Orange) if you suspect the client's skin will pull cool tones.
Can I mix SUPER pigments with other brands?
It is strongly discouraged to mix PhiBrows pigments with other brands. Different manufacturers use different chemical carriers and stabilizers, and mixing them can result in unpredictable healed colors or adverse skin reactions.
Why is the SUPER formula better than the previous SUPE formula?
The SUPER formula was designed to be even more stable and is fully compliant with the latest EU REACH regulations. It features improved pigment coating technology that helps the body accept the pigment more easily, leading to better retention and even crisper hair strokes.